This Week #8 | Niche AW24 Guide
With recommendations from Nolan Daniel White, Susan Carroll Cooper, Mark Boutilier, Louis Cheslaw (and PF)
PRESENT FOREVER is the new go-to source for discovering independent clothing brands, makers and stores from across the globe. Follow us on IG here and here
I like to believe it’s possible to foster a personal relationship with a piece of clothing — just as I like to believe it’s important to do so, for the world’s and your own sake: you’re less likely to add more waste to the landfills, and you’re creating a durable wardrobe consisting of items you cherish and actually wear.
One way to do this is to explore pre-owned alternatives (Lanausee Store and Sinot have first-rate selections). Nothing beats the feeling of discovering a unique, rare-to-find piece from the 80s or 90s — from Armani to Issey Miyake, from C.P. Company to Katherine Hamnett. Looking at its construction, you realize how well made clothes used to be, even when mass-produced. You discover signature design details from a previous era, when the designer’s handwriting was still in development. You see how it’s worn at the edges and has several patches to fix holes, reminding you of the lives it has already lived.
Another option when you’re looking to buy new clothes is to take the time to discover small, independent brands. Last week I wrote down my take on why they deserve your support — whether or not you’re struggling to reconcile your obsessions with your politics. For one thing, they invite you to open our eyes to the difference between fashion and clothes. They also offer glimpses of what a different fashion world could look like, one that’s more conscious and less objectionable, more intimate and less faceless, nameless.
Still, not all niche brands are alike, of course. Some are eco-friendly at the price of being uninteresting, design-wise. Others opt for timeless pieces, fitting in with the quiet luxury or workwear aesthetics of global brands. Yet others are creative pioneers who, owing to values intrinsic in their “nicheness”, are likely to help shape the future direction of fashion — they take the time to experiment and the freedom to give into idiosyncratic obsessions, and they make the deliberate decision to remain small and grow organically, to have little online or media presence, to do limited runs or made-to-orders, to work with very few stockists, and to appeal only to those naturally drawn to them.
In other words: finding the world’s best niche brands isn’t always easy. You have to be patient. You have to know where to look. You have to embrace luck. And, more practically, sometimes you have to be willing to pay for import duties and additional shipping costs…
But don’t despair. There’s other people out there to help out. I’ve invited some of my favorite clothing writers and content creators of this planet to compile an exclusive ‘Niche AW24 Guide’. It contains items from small, independent brands and makers they treasure that are either on their radars or their personal wish-lists for this fall and winter — all for your browsing pleasure!
NOLAN DANIEL WHITE
Nolan is a writer, content creator and creative consultant based in Montreal. He has cultivated a community twice the size of my home town around his honest love for high-quality fashion and vintage watches — and, this feat notwithstanding, he’s a kind and approachable human being.
KLUANE MOUNTAINEERING / Snap Parka
”It’s gotta be the Kluane Mountaineering Snap Parka. I connected with Dylan from Kluane about a year ago, just as he was taking over the brand from its retiring predecessor. They do made-to-order down jackets by hand out of their Edmonton (CA) workshop, using the same techniques from when it was founded over 50 years ago. Defying all odds, Kluane has remained in business through booms, busts, and the mass exodus of clothing manufacturing from North America. Dylan is a stand-up dude, a true gentleman, and he’s committed years of his life to continuing this noble craft. Out of all their silhouettes, I think the Snap Parka is the most iconic, brain-burning of them all.”
The Kluane Mountaineering - Snap Parka (Orange) is available online from Blue in Green Soho here
SUSAN CARROLL COOPER
Susan is a Glasgow-based creative and style influencer with an unmatched sense of how to put together an outfit that works — which, to me at any rate, means that it looks good and feels good, that it’s sophisticated and fuzz-free at the same time.
”It’s worth noting,” writes Susan, “that my three picks are women-owned, small independent brands that use their platforms not only to promote their business but also to highlight, educate and fundraise for political, social and environmental issues that are important to them. That’s the kind of people I want to support and spend my money with.”
— XENIA TELUNTS / Cotton Fisherman Sweater Brown
”The first item I’d like to introduce is from XENIA TELUNTS — one of the most interesting brands/designers in the UK at the moment. They make gender-neutral clothes from organic and recycled fabrics with minimal waste practices. Their lookbook and campaign styling have a unique point of view, contemporary without being trend-led. I’ve been following them for years now and I’m always inspired.
The item I’ve selected is from their core knitwear range. The Cotton Fisherman Sweater in Brown. I cannot get enough of this shape, it’s a classic! Made from weighty cotton yarn in the perfect chocolate brown, which is my favourite colour to wear. This is a bit of an investment piece, and I’d gladly recommend it. I have it in Indigo and I’m not kidding when I say, I barely take it off.”
The Fisherman Sweater (Brown) from XENIA TELUNTS is available from the brand’s online store here. Click here for a full interview with XENIA TELUNTS
— I AND ME / Selvedge Baggy Jeans (Rinse)
“My second item is from a UK-based denim brand that I love: I AND ME. Denim fits inspired by vintage styles and denim icons, made sustainably and ethically. I’m lucky enough to have several pieces by I AND ME in my wardrobe, that I reach for constantly.
Something I’ve added to my wardrobe recently is the Selvedge Baggy Jeans in Indigo Rinse. These are just a great pair of jeans, well made with a slightly 90s fit — they sit on the waist with a relaxed/loose straight leg. So easy to wear. The fabric is a rinse-washed 14oz Italian selvedge denim, an organic cotton/hemp blend made on ‘60s shuttle looms by sustainable mill Candiani. I have these in 3 colours!”
The I AND ME Selvedge Baggy Jeans is available from the brand’s online store here
— XI ATELIER / The Clove Blouse
”XI ATELIER is a local brand that I recently discovered. Slow, made-to-order by Sophie in Glasgow using natural fibres. Their growing collection is refined, considered and inclusive.
The Clove Blouse, in particular, has caught my eye. And what’s great is that these are made to order so you can select from a range of fabrics. I love the ecru, twill or brown linen. I think is is such a simple, elegant shape, structured and well crafted, finished with French seams (so it looks good on the inside as it does on the outside!). It’s versatile and made to last.”
XI ATELIER’s Clove Blouse, made-to-order in six different fabrics, can be ordered here
MARK BOUTILIER
Mark is a New York-based fashion content creator (‘internet-personality’!), known for his creative — light-footed and often humorous approach — to the more extravagant, avant-garde side of the fashionable spectrum. He has deservedly received write-ups in many news outlets, including The New York Times, who back in 2021 included him in a feature on ‘The Young Men’s Style Council of TikTok’.
— BENJAMIN GRECO / Cocoon Bag
”All of Benjamin’s bags are stunning, but I especially love this style in wine. Ben lives in Brooklyn, New York and I’ve had the pleasure of visiting his apartment where he’s converted his basement into a (very fragrant) work space. He spends hours on each bag and continues to experiment with new materials and techniques.”
The BENJAMIN GREGO ‘Cocoon Bag’, made-to-order in NY, is available here
— ESKHATON / STAR Pendant
”Like many, I was somebody who liked jewelry but didn’t know much about. when I discovered ESKHATON, I was drawn to the sorta chunky, eroded style pieces. It wasn’t until we collaborated on some styles a bit later that I learned a lot about his processes, materials, material costs, and just how much goes into each piece. This STAR Pendant exemplifies all the things I love about his work. It’s bold, imperfect, and the stones play off each other beautifully.”
ESKHATON’s ‘STAR Pendant’ is available from the brand’s online store here
LOUIS CHESLAW
Louis is a London-based writer and editor. A former staff member at New York Magazine, he’s the menswear columnist for Magasin, part of the GQ Recommends team, and he occasionally writes about culture for the Financial Times and Wall Street Journal. For me personally, he’s one of those extra special menswear writers, always on to something, and always just ahead of the curve.
— BEXHILL COURT / Knit Beanies
”I’ve loved BEXHILL COURT’s knit beanies for a couple of years now, but the small-batch runs always sell out in seconds, and I’ve been on the wrong side of that story too many times. You can likely see why as you scroll down the archive. The designs are stunning, the website is endearingly cryptic, and the brand’s lore — started by a photographer and STÜSSY alum who does this purely as a passion project — is the kind it feels good to support. I finally secured on in their latest drop, and it arrived really fast, even shipping to Europe.”
All BEXHILL COURT Knit Beanies are currently sold out. Keep an eye on the brand’s website and IG for upcoming releases
— CECILE TULKENS / Pointelle Gansey
”This jumper just kind of stopped me in my tracks when I first saw it. I love Cecile’s obsession with historic British mills and their processes, but then how she tweaks the formula slightly with more interesting cuts and the quiet confidence to, I don’t know, stitch her own name in a perfectly precise formation across the chest — the most tender, soft approach to a logo I’ve seen in a long time.”
The ‘Pointelle Gansey’, available in three colors, can be purchased here
— CONKERS / Zip-Through Shetland Knit
”Finally, this is just a piece I’d love to have, and know I’d get a ton of wear from — and would keep me plenty warm. I love that it has the heft and gravitas of lambswool, but that the collar is as understated and casual as a tee.”
The CONKERS ‘Zip-Through Shetland Knit’ is available at Nitty Gritty and Neighbour. Read more about CONKERS here
PRESENT FOREVER
Okay, two more from myself — just because.
— TATAMIZE / Mittens (Brown)
Made-to-order by Osamu Yaehata out of his small workshop in Sandai, Japan, these mittens come in 100% wool, with a slightly long pile, are filled with cotton and lined with 100% cotton flannel.
The mittens are exclusively available here. Also read the full interview with TATAMIZE.
— STUDIO DE LOSTANGES / Collar Vest (Orange)
Founded in 2020, STUDIO DE LOSTANGES is the project of two sisters, Louise and Jeanne Tresvaux du Fraval. They release one edition per year in a highly limited run, made in Brittany in one of the last French knitwear factories, often using dead-stock or second-hand materials.
The ‘Collar Vest’ is exclusively available from the brand’s online store here